To describe someone as Swiss as Max Liechti as a 'son of the soil' in a Hong Kong based publication sounds ridiculous. But then again, he seems to embody all that Hong Kong stands for: resilience, can-do attitude, evangelistic zeal etc are only some of the few superlatives that can be used to describe his indomitable spirit. He would have had to posess such a thing.
All in all, it has been a memorable journey, starting off with cleaning burnt pots as a kitchen boy at 14, and culminating in the nirvana which all great aspiring chefs dream of; to own their own
restaurant.
Although staunchly Swiss, Liechti returned to his spiritual home in the Special Administrative Region when he received a call from senior management at the Royal Pacific Hotel and Towers in Tsim Sha Tsui's China Hong Kong City complex. He was wanted by top brass as executive chef, to create an authentic Swiss restaurant. Hong Kong's first Swiss Chalet was born.
Building Blocks
However, after a decade of success and despite a strong and loyal following, the Swiss Chalet was forced into closure by the Asian Financial Crisis of early 1998. For Liechti, this moment was an opportunity and within a year had fitted out his own Swiss Chalet in Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, rescuing a number of the old fittings and furniture from the hotel.
"I hated the thought of all those years of work going to the garbage," he mused. "As a chef, the idea was always at the back of my mind that I should have a place of my own".
Over the years Liechti has seen many changes within the industry. Cooking styles have changed from overcooking to finding a balance between taste and texture, allowing for better consumption of vitamins that are often destroyed by overcooking. In Liechti's mind, the quality of food overall has been on the decline. People have become part of the fast food culture, and many restaurants open up merely to reap in the profits. In Switzerland restaurants do not need licences. Liechti's aim of the Swiss chalet was to make it an institution, a place that serves authentic food "the way it used to be in Switzerland".
The 65 seat Swiss Chalet, or "Home away from home" as Liechti calls it serves traditional Swiss home style cooking. The typical omnipresent Swiss dish is the emince of veal with mushrooms. Another signature dish is the beef tenderloin with herb cheese sauce (made of goats milk and clover leafs) stuffed with mushrooms and fresh herbs. Serving portions are generous with the aim of "enjoying what you have in front of you". Liechti encourages communication from his customers, to the point of even having you dictate your specific garnishes.
Personalised Service
"For example if a diner wants something which isn't on the menu, then so long as I have the ingredients and he tells me how to make the dish, then it is done". Finally there is the cheese board, or "Rolls Royce of the restaurant" comprising of more than 25 kinds of Swiss cheeses exclusive to the Swiss Chalet.
This no-nonsense restaurateur moves from table to table handling the requests of his guests with consummate ease. He seems very much the hands on-proprietor and he tries to be an example to his staff. Having spent most of his life in the kitchen, Liechti had to involve himself in all matters concerning the Swiss Chalet, and it is with this that the "restaurant is touched by his heart". He doesn't mind working 24 hours a day so long as his customer is happy. His tenets for success in the hospitality industry are "self motivation, inventiveness and flexibility".
"Hong Kong needs specialised restaurants; people come here because they get something different" he says. "The Swiss Chalet offers a warm home away from home atmosphere with down-to-earth Swiss food at reasonable prices".
And relationships do matter in this business. "It's that little extra that diners want, something I try to remember about each one and it seems to mater to the regulars," says Liechti.
Regulars he has no shortage of. He's clearly the most talked about entrepreneur at least within the Swiss business community. Amongst the European business community, the Swiss Chalet is something of an exciting culinary dining experience. Liecht's entrepreneurial zeal is itself a drawing factor. The variety he provides on the table is reasonably priced, jet fresh and served with the sort of finesse one would expect from a boutique restaurant run by an entrepreneur.
Personal Touch
One would have expected Liechti to expand and start up another Chalet in Hong Kong, or possibly the region. That's won't happen sometime soon. He'd much prefer to revel in the exclusivity. He can be forgiven for this thinking. Far too many ideas have stretched themselves too thin. Besides, there is only one Max Liechti.
Arguably, the main success factor is the 'personal touch'. Every aspect of from procurement to service is supervised personally. The idea is to create an ambiance that's worth coming back to. And, he has succeeded where most hay not have.
The Chinese business community too can be seen enjoying Max's delicacies or just sipping a rare glass of red wine at the bar.
A combination of after-work relaxation and mild sophistication ensures the right level of cordiality. Liechti joins in when he can and regales diners with his knowledge of food and wine, his life away from Switzerland and his days in Hong Kong.
In some ways, the exclusivity of the Swiss Chalet is good. But, some do feel that Liechti must take this concept further. Who knows! He probably will.
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